lunch at the autogrill

Would you believe that you can eat over top of the Italian Autostrada? Well you can, and here's the view! Okay, so it's not that exciting of a view considering that it IS Italy, but considering that you are able to eat at what is essentially a gas station on TOP of the freeway, it's kinda novel. It's the Autogrill, and it's an Italian food chain. All things considered, it's pretty good. I mean, I wish there were more "fast food" places in Canada where I could get a salad like this with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. Or this salad with bocconcini and anchovies. I'd gladly settle for some roast pork. Or grab some roast potatoes and eggplant....if I had to. Heck, even this strawberry cheesecake isn't too shabby. And this is all without ordering from a sit-down menu, or searching endlessly for a family-run restaurant (although you gotta love those). All the food is prepared for the motor traveler to enjoy a quick, but hearty and healthful meal. No, it's not local or organic. And the next time I'm driving from Modena to Montepulciano, I'd rather have a chunk of parmigiano-reggiano and prosciutto. But hey, eating at the Autogrill in Italy is a heck of a lot better than any gas station I've been to anywhere else, and the food resembles real stuff. Will I make a point of stopping at an Autogrill again? Probably not. But the extensive chocolate selection rivals most any gourmet food shop in Calgary, and that is quite tempting in and of itself. Who can argue with that? p.s. Yes, I'm still grappling with HOW exactly I am ever going to finish telling you about last summer's trip to Italy. And it's getting close to the anniversary, I have to hurry!
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Capo Restaurant and a Delicious Tour of Italy

Okay, yes I know I am a sucker for all things Italian. Leather gloves, and handbags included. Sorry, but once you start, you can never go back. Which is why Jeff and I are essentially kidnapping my parents and spending all of July in Italy! (oh don't worry, our houses will have housesitters, so don't get any ideas!). This will be my third trip to Italy, and Jeff's second trip. My parents have never been, so it will be extra fun to enjoy their reactions. I seem to have a pattern of every other year, and to lengthen the trip by a week each time.... oh darn! If you haven't been to Italy, the one thing you find when you go is that it ultimately doesn't matter where you go, but you'll be forced to slow down. If you return home, and find just eating dinner takes you anything less than an hour, then there is something very wrong. I guess then you would just have to go back! However, it also doesn't matter where you go because everything changes in Italy so very quickly. A ten-minute walk or a ten-minute drive can feel like an entirely different world. The food, customs, and clothing can be entirely different within what North Americans would find to be a very small distance. In fact, I have also found that with each additional trip to Italy, I plan to travel even smaller distances, but to become very familiar with the regions I do travel to. Plus, it provides much more time to discover your favourite gelateria, or caffe, and to really savour it again, and again. So I guess you could say, that I am pretty excited about this trip! However, it is also nice to have a little warm up of sorts. You probably know me well enough by now, to know that a trip is a recognized eating event! The majority of the trip is planned around eating, so as to not miss out on any particular regional necessity! So surely, I plan and research a little bit obsessively. Just a little - I swear! I'm sorry, but I have eaten in bad restaurants in Italy, and was so very disappointed upon realizing that I could have eaten at the same place as the night before, which was life-altering. This becomes especially true, when you add into reality that the cost of meals does not vary as greatly for differences in flavour and preparation. Certainly, there are supremely expensive restaurants, however, the average price for dinner for two does not tend to differ by greater than ten to twenty euros - when ordering the same number of courses most nights. The price of most restaurants tends to be quite competitive with each other. Of course, there are always exceptions! But to help stave off any excessive excitement, Jeff and I met up with a couple of very good friends for a family-style dinner at Capo. Now, normally Capo is known for high-end dining, with slightly smaller courses (but generally the size in many areas of Italy), and exceptional service. It seats forty, and has an extensive wine list. It is certainly one of Calgary's finest restaurants, and even before this dinner, I would say that it is Calgary's finest "Italian" restaurant. Recently, I also enjoyed some fantastic pasticciata (3 day lasagne), prepared by Giuseppe di Gennaro, which was served at Bite Groceteria to promote their Tour of Italy Dinners, as it was also sponsored by Bite. The pasticciata was phenomenal, and I don't say that lightly. It was extremely flavourful, rich, with perfect pasta which was not overcooked (!!) and evenly seasoned too. (!!) I should probably admit that I tend to have a gripe with many Calgary restaurants for being at a complete loss with salt. There is either too much salt, or none at all. (Did they forget??) In comparison, the food in Italy, is always seasoned; or it is naturally "salty" - containing parmigiano, or prosciutto. What I am trying to say is that I was very happy to have lasagne which made my eyes so wide with enjoyment! Capo is also renowned for exceptional service, and why Jeff and I have purchased gift-certificates for others to enjoy it. Luckily, the food is also very, very good. We know that the friends we send will be taken care of. Unfortunately, Jeff and I could not make the first Tour of Italy dinner, because of prior commitments on Tuesdays, and were very excited that a second night in March was added. Now besides the fact that the food and service at Capo are great, we were more excited to have a 5-course meal served family style with wine pairings for $110 per person. No thinking; just eat and be merry. This is reasonable to me, as I prefer simpler preparations with slight innovations, but still prefer deliciousness over innovation. To be completely honest, every time that I have eaten in a Michelin-starred or even very expensive Italian restaurant, I have been at least a bit disappointed. "So expensive, and I am still hungry?" It makes me think, "yes the sauce is delicious, but the texture of the gnocchi still isn't right!" Modern Italian food prepared with French techniques, is still good, but I prefer things a little bit more like nonna would make. Nothing fancy, just good food done right. I was curious to see how Giuseppe di Gennaro would make nonna's food, and make us feel right at home. The dinner began with robustly flavourful rolls of eggplant and anchovies. They look so small, but the flavour is huge. Then we were onto the first region of the tour, Le Marche, for calamaretti d'Anconetana. It was a dish with baby squid with tomato, olives, and crostini. It was also richly flavourful, and did not contain an overwhelming amount of garlic for the faint of heart. This kind of dish is entirely addicting to me, with a little bit of the sea cooked right into the sauce. The squid was tender and perfectly seasoned. The crostini were a nice accent, and understandable in a restaurant setting - but I preferred to dunk little bits of the bread from the table to soak up the sauce. Out of the table of six diners, I probably ate most of one of the two dishes served. From there we moved onto the food of Puglia, for polpette di melanzane; eggplant fritters with rapini aioli. This was an immediate hit at the table, and suddenly the volume of joyful voices abounded like gleeful children. This dish tastes much different than it looks and sounds. It does have eggplant, but also a significant amount of ground beef. I wish it was sold on the street here in town, as a snack that you would want to enjoy everyday. Crispy on the outside, tender on the inside. Salty, but a little sweet. A little tangy and bitter with the aioli. Fantastic. The only problem was trying to cut the stringy eggplant, to actually have a bite, even though it was extremely tender to eat. Although, the effort was well rewarded upon tasting the dish. And really, a little rustic this way, so it was a little more lovable since extra effort was required. Next stop, Sardegna for culurgionis di patate Ogliastrini. One of the most enjoyable parts of the meal was Giuseppe's thoughtful descriptions before each course, and new additional wine-pairing. For this course he talked about "starch-on-starch", as this is essentially ravioli stuffed with potatoes. It was also served with roast pork and ricotta salata. This dish acted to emphasize the reality that every culture has a dumpling of some sort, and in a way, this is like a little like a perogie. Just a much more elegant and refined version. I liked the dish. But I have to admit that for a dinner in which everything is served alla famiglia, I expected more pasta. Don't get me wrong, I was quite full by the end of the night. But I had 2 pieces of this pasta, and Jeff had three. It is certainly an extremely lovely pasta, but so labour-intensive, that it is too difficult to serve very much of it. I could have done without the calamaretti, or the polpette and had two pastas as a replacement of one. A little more gluttonous, but it would have felt a little bit more relaxed, as if mama was forcing me to eat! Mangia! My favourite course was the saltimbocca alla romana con piselli e patate. Everyone loved these peas. They are certainly not something one would ordinarily have in a restaurant like Capo, as the rolling factor could certainly detract from a fine-dining experience. The accompanying sweet onions made the dish one which would convince anyone to eat their vegetables. I did need the crispy potatoes to serve the sauce accompanying the veal. For me, the veal saltimbocca was the highlight of the night. It was dizzyingly spectacular. Rich, tender, flavourful, and I ate as much as I could. Even so, I could still eat more of it at this very moment. Every bite was better than the last one. The prosciutto was sliced so thinly, it was difficult to decipher the pieces of veal from the prosciutto. The sage came through singingly. This is the kind of dish I want to eat all the time, and the kind of dish I expect to have while in Italy. A simple, but memorable dish. Nothing complicated about it, just good food prepared well. I love that. I have to admit that when I think of Italian cuisine, desserts rarely come to mind, except of course for gelato. Sure, there are great Italian desserts, but they are rarely sweet and are most often based on fruit. Refreshingly, this chestnut and white chocolate mousse was inspired by the montebianco of Valle d'Aosta. I think this dessert was overshadowed by the success of the veal, because it didn't have much impact for me. I loved the creamy white top, but needed a bit more to really fall in love (and I swear I do not have a gigantic appetite!). I would have loved for a large bowl to be plunked on the table, and have the server place it in individual bowls to fit the casual-ness of the evening. There was nothing wrong with it; I just won't be dreaming of it. I haven't mentioned the wine pairings, but they were phenomenal (and available from wineboy), and a hit with everyone at the table. In fact, the whole concept was a hit, and it would be impossible not to have a spectacular time. There was even a goody bag with a recipe and pasta to try at home. It also helps to enjoy good food, with good friends. Even those we did not know, quickly became our friends! All in all the best part is the variety of foods and wines which were a part of the event; an outstanding value. You too can enjoy a tour of Italy with chef Giuseppe di Gennaro, at the next tour on Tuesday, March 17 at 6:30pm. Contact Capo for more information.
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Batali's Enoteca San Marco, Las Vegas

This was our first foray into Mario Batali and Bastianich-land this trip, and it was just as I had anticipated. Everything was very good; not a single dish which did not at least please. This started with the bread - the only traditional Italian, virtually burnt and tasteless bread, I've ever had outside of Italy. Things were looking up. I have happily released my apprehensions of the some of the terrible reviews of Enoteca San Marco, which seem to be a bit unwarranted. Most importantly, this is supposed to be a casual place, really a wine bar. It's supposed to be a little bit like eating at home, nothing too fancy or contrived. It does happen to have main entrées, but there is a definite emphasis on sharing antipasti. Enoteca San Marco is located in a corner of the Piazza San Marco, in the Venetian hotel and casino, and is supposed to feel a bit lively as it is intended to feel outdoors, with camera-happy passersby, gelateria's, entertainers, and gondoliers. This is not a place for a quiet, intimate experience, unless perhaps "inside" the restaurant doors. There is a certain element of this fake spectacle, which needs to be taken in stride. After all, spectacle and excess are the essence of the Las Vegas strip. This is Vegas, after all, so the prices are not rock bottom. However, four of us were more than satisfied for just over $200 including a fantastic bottle of Montepulciano d'Abruzzo. Not bad anywhere, never mind Las Vegas. Since it was one of our first dinners in Vegas, it didn't seem like a big deal to have 100 wines less than $100. However, after dining at other restaurants, where there were over a thousand bottles of wine with only eight bottles of wine under $100, this list can be appreciated a bit more. I'm all for good wine, but I have to draw the line somewhere. As mentioned, the bread would probably seem to many, as completely lifeless and probably inedible. Enoteca San Marco, does however, attempt to improve this bread of the povere, poor, by wrapping it in paper and it is served warm, and therefore, still soft. In Italy, bread is served at the beginning of the meal, but is hardly ever eaten until the end of the meal, and mostly to mop up sauces. Try it, rip off a little piece, and clean off the plate with that perfectly toasted crust which adds additional body to anything left. The traditional bread has no preservatives, and no salt, and is very dense. It is not meant to be eaten by itself. It is almost like a sponge. It is a vessel used to amplify the flavours of something else, and not to detract from it. To start, we ordered caponata (left), roasted beets (top), and brussel sprouts with pecorino (bottom). Most often, restaurants focus on meats and an inexpensive carbohydrate, perhaps only the occasional salad with spring mix, so it is refreshing to have an new interpretation of vegetables which require finesse, and fresh ingredients. I am quite certain that my feelings will cloud any type of critical judgment. I loved these little simple dishes. The eggplant was complimented by pine nuts, raisins, and capers. The eggplant itself was not overcooked or soggy, but retained a somewhat meaty texture. The dish was salty and sweet all in one, and therefore an instantly satisfying. The beets were paired with saba, a cousin to balsamic, complimenting the beets with an enjoyable sweet tang. The texture of the beets was a little more cooked than I would have liked, but still acceptable. The brussel sprouts were a complete surprise. They were served raw, thinly sliced, and tossed with a nearly equal amount of pecorino cheese. This dish is completely understated, and unusual, but fabulous. It seems like it couldn't possibly be good, but then the next thing you know, you are craving it and you didn't even know that you liked brussel sprouts much at all. A simple preparation as this, makes for a fantastic dish. The second round of shared dishes, featured several fritti or fried tastes. This included arancine (left), gnocco fritto (bottom), a mozzarella and anchovy fried sandwich (right, and top left), which came with some thinly sliced and lightly dressed fennel. The arancine were very crunchy as they should be, although a tad too salty for me. The inside was very soft, with a saffron-tomato type of risotto. I prefer the inside to have a firmer consistency. The gnocco fritto, essentially fried dough, were my only disappointment with the meal, and they were good. Gnocco-fritto are served at virtually every restaurant in Bologna, and Emilia-Romagna to commence the meal. I have only enjoyed them as little squares, which appear like ravioli, like there is something inside. Then you bite into it, and discover the tastiest little pillow of joy imaginable. There is nothing inside, but air. They must be served warm, and should instantly dissolve into nothingness, a heavenly experience for the palate. They are often served with a little salami, or prosciutto. The gnocco-fritto here were shaped a little like fries, and didn't melt away into nothing as I had hoped. Although, this was different take on gnocco fritto altogether, and if I had no prior experience with the traditional gnocco-fritto, this would be just fine. The mozzarella and anchovy sandwich had a crispy fried outside, with a soft-chewy inside. It was very rich, but perfect with wine. The anchovies are nicely tucked inside, and are noticeable, but not overwhelming. I do have to say that my Dad ate it, and while I think he would have scrunched up his face in disgust (he's not the most adventurous) had we really pointed out that there were anchovies; he ate it and liked it. And didn't find out there were anchovies, until we told him the next day. He said it was good! The thinly sliced fennel was a refreshing touch with all this fried food. Just simple. Dad had these meatballs and polenta. No complaints. Jeff had the cannelloni, and while it looks a bit toasty, he said it was a "very good cannelloni". I ordered the bucatini all'Amatriciana, a sauce of tomato, cured pork and onion. This dish looks so simple, but it was very deeply flavourful. I did not have a chance to ask which pork had been used, but it seemed like more than just pancetta, perhaps guanciale. The dish also had a slight kick from red onions. The pasta was perfectly cooked. There is not much more to say, other than it was an all round great dish. Mom ordered the casareccia con Zucca. It lovingly combined butternut squash, smoked ricotta and toasted hazelnuts. This dish is fantastic. Butternut squash and hazelnuts are a classic combination, but not often as simply stated as this dish is. Each part was prepared as it should be. She loved it, and so did I... We would have decided to forgo dessert, except that an apple-basil gelato was calling Jeff's name. But so was this peanut butter and roasted banana gelato, with bananas, caramel sauce, a peanut butter cookie, and peanuts. Very creamy gelato, very nice. Below has Jeff's peanut butter concoction on the left, the apple-basil gelato in the front, and a trio of chocolate, hazelnut, and creme fraiche gelati. They were all very good, and none too excessively sweet. However, the apple-basil gelato stood apart from the others. It captured the essence of green apples and the basil without becoming too overwhelming, and was delicious despite the somewhat unusual pairing. A lovely way to cleanse the palate before sauntering back into the shopping maze of "Venice".
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a sandwich addiction

I think I have found a long lost love. It's ridiculous really; this sandwich is very simple. It just requires finding a few key ingredients, and then arranging them in an enjoyable combination. Generally this combination is completely up to individual preference, and so the sandwich must be enjoyed several times; just to get it right. Oh darn. It's a sort of salty-sweet type of thing. I blame the prosciutto. It is just built that way. It's destined to become an addiction in anything prosciutto decides to be a part of. The fig spread just adds a bit of sweetness, and the goat cheese just makes it that much richer. I'm hooked. Fig spread seems to becoming more and more popular, as I recently have found it at local chain grocery stores. Homemade would surely be over the top, as would attention to different types of fig spread, such as orange fig spread. This sandwich used 100grams of prosciutto, an enormous smear of goat cheese, and a dash of fig spread. An equally mouth-watering crostini can be prepared with the same ingredients, and virtually effortlessly. A similar pizza wouldn't be half bad either. Twist my arm. Prosciutto, Fig, and Goat Cheese Sandwich

• bread of your choice
• prosciutto
• fig spread
• goat cheese, chèvre

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pistachio, swiss chard & kale risotto

There's only so many salads I can take. And I love salads. But sometimes, I just need my greens in another way. Like pesto, or blended into brownies (you'll never know if you still use butter and sugar... I swear it!) This becomes even more true as I start to pull out my wool socks, wool hats, and my down coat. I need greens even more, but they even have to warm me up from the inside out, in a soulful kinda way. My all-time favourite risotto is risotto milanese (with saffron), but it isn't exactly full of healthful vegetables, or really anything healthful at all. But it is just so divine.... This risotto with pistachio's, swiss chard and kale, uses the same techniques, but it takes these super-green veggies to give it a wolloping punch. These vegetables aren't exactly ones I want to eat in a salad everyday, but they sure are good with a bit of rice, butter, and cheese. This is especially good for those, who would never eat these greens otherwise! When I suggested we have risotto for dinner, and asked Jeff which kind he would like; he immediately stated, "pistachio". Pistachio it is. Pistachio, Swiss Chard & Kale Risotto 1 cup arborio rice 2 tbsp butter 1/2 cup white onion 1/2 cup dry white wine 1 liter chicken or vegetable stock 1 bunch kale 1 bunch swiss chard 1/2 cup shelled pistachios 1 cup parmigiano-reggiano chèvre (optional) salt, to taste 1. Finely chop the onion. 2. In a food processor, combine the kale, swiss chard, and pistachios with 1/4 cup water, for approximately 10 seconds. Scrape down the sides with a spatula, and pulse for another 5 seconds. 3. Add the stock to a sauce pan, and heat on medium low. 4. In a deep-sided sauté pan, heat one tablespoon of butter on medium heat, until it begins to bubble. Add the onion, and sauté until soft and transcluent, not allowing it to brown. 5. Add the rice to the sauté pan, and stir until well coated with the butter. 6. Add the dry white wine, and stir until evaporated. 7. Add a ladle of the soup stock to the rice mixture. Stir, and allow the mixture to cook down before adding more stock, only one ladle at a time. 8. Before the last amount of stock is added, add the kale, swiss chard, and pistachio mixture. Add the remainder of the stock. 9. Remove the pan from heat, and gently stir in the parmigiano, and the remaining tablespoon of butter. Season to taste. 10. Serve immediately, with a spoonful of fresh chèvre for extra creaminess.
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salumi, Seattle

Salami might sound like just any old cured meat to plunk into a sandwich and sink the teeth into. However, when at Salumi, you discover that it is anything but. Salumi plays on the Italian word salumeria, and has become a food-lover's destination in Seattle, and even a bit of a landmark. Pilgrams to the shop will find their own version of high art. A slice of salami is studded with kaleidoscopic colours, and multiple layers of intense flavour. New York restaurateur and celebrity chef, red-haired, clog-sporting Mario Batali is certainly well known in the world of food. But in this case, Salumi is the brainchild and dream of his father, Armandino Batali. He retired from Boeing, went to Panzano, Italy, with food expert, Faith Willinger to learn from the ultimate in Tuscan food knowledge, Dario Cecchini. Then Armandino brought back to Seattle the knowledge of how to prepare the treasures of the Italian table. Not only is there salami, and beautiful sandwiches, but traditionally prepared dishes as well. Salumi has also begun to create their own culatello. It is in some ways similar to prosciutto, basically the same part of the back leg of the pig, but a smaller section of it. Originally, culatello is from Zibello, near Parma, and the curing process traditionally only happens in January and lasts from 6-8 months. However, the entire process is dependent upon the climate, and therefore is not easily replicable inside a factory. This stuff is in demand and hard to get. Culatello is not often available outside of Zibello, and due to the type of process used to prepare it, was not easily obtainable in the United States. Now, if you are lucky, you can enjoy it at Salumi, or mail-order it. Even though it has become nearly obligatory to photograph the sign above the entrance, Salumi is actually easier to recognize by the line-up of eager denizens pouring out into the street. Luckily, the jovial staff are occasionally meandering down the cue with a plate of some delicious carnivorous samples like a spicy mole salami. Salumi is so wildly popular that even though they are open from Tuesday through Friday from 11am-4pm, the door often closes sometime around 2pm as they frequently sell out. A few dishes of the day, including eggplant or pasta shells with tomato and basil: Interestingly, the prosciutto we saw was from Canada. Get the prosciutto, fig, and goat cheese sandwich as a snack for the late afternoon. Salumi has weekly specials, and luckily, it was oxtail. Enjoy the hot sandwiches at the communal table, make a few friendes, and wash it down with some wine. This is some of the best stuff you can eat anywhere. It doesn't get any better. It is impossible to take decent pictures while rushing frantically to get to the plate. The oxtail is great, and so is the porchetta. It is roasted so beautifully, resulting in chunks of the most tender meat around. Salumi is a place doing good things, for good eating. Short of learning Italian, and intensely studying the Michelin Guide Book on where to eat, this is as good as it gets on this side of the pond. Salumi -309 Third Ave South, Seattle, WA (between Main and Jackson, across from Seattle Lighting)
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'inoteca, nyc

I have at least a slight inclination towards restaurants and shops that I wish I lived around the corner from, really, this is a strong preference for all the places I wish were just around the corner from my house. All of the best boulangerie's, gelateria's, patisserie's, and wine bars of the world, just seconds away on foot, or even a short subway ride away. But sadly, as wonderful as that sounds, this close proximity to all things wonderful, just might take out all the fun of travel and discovery. I should probably say discovery loosely, as I do love serendipitous jaunts while traveling, it is very hard to really discover something new. I do plan and read in advance. It's like my flirtation with the idea of travel, and builds excitement about an upcoming trip. Like life, I travel with certain planned destinations along the way. Then there are those points of interest, I had heard about but didn't plan to visit. But then, as you stand there reading a menu with swelling feet, and a growing appetite, you realize this was a destination meant to be all along. Somehow for me, 'intoeca, is one of those places. This past June, I didn't plan to return to 'inoteca, nor did I plan to eat here the first time I did in January 2006. Even though the menu sounded right up my alley, it just didn't grab me. But yet, I've still eaten here twice. When you see the place and the diners, you just want to join in. It's not a destination, until you realize, that it is everything you always wish for (but secretly would never let on) It's not fancy or complicated, and that's why I love it. Just a lot of very good things all on the same menu. The menu features wines by the glass, by the bottle, Italian cheeses, panini, tramezzini, and bruschette. There are also plates of fried items, plates of various items including lasagnette with eggplant or meatballs. There are also plates of a variety of salumi, and there are salads too. I love this menu; refreshingly, there is nothing on it I do not want to eat. The truffle egg toast is a splendid affair, as is the verdure misti (above). The culatello panini with noci and mozzarella, is rich and delicious. The panelle (chickpea fritters) were also tasty. Everything here is just a little bit more unusual (I wish it weren't so), and simply delicious. The dishes are satisfyingly full of flavour, but leave me yearning for more when I am thousands of miles away. Next time I am in New York, I will start my trip here. It's all good.
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Grom Gelateria

I should probably preface this post with my favourite quote, "gelato makes you beautiful." As if anyone needs an excuse for gelato, but it is a fail-proof way to convince female friends to partake in the fun. And sometimes I truly believe, or at least it is a secret wish of mine, that at least a little bit of sweets can't hurt right? Oh if you only knew, how much I do truly adore sweets! And yes, gelato really does make you beautiful - I swear! As part of the NYC eating part of my trip (which sometimes seemed more like a walking tour) I had to make it to GROM, a gelateria import from Italy. I had formerly enjoyed it in their Florence shop, and quite liked it. However, it all began in Turin, and the proprietors wanted to create a product using the best agricultural products available in Italy. There are now three stores in New York City alone, the lines were apparently too long with only one shop! They insist their standards are very strict, using "only fresh and in-season fruit, coming from the best consortia in Italy, no colorings or additives that are not natural, Lurisia mountain water used as a base for sherbets and high-quality whole milk for the creams, organic eggs and selections of the best cocoas and coffees from central America." Basically, this means I have much less guilt about eating the stuff, as my body was meant to digest good stuff like this. As a result of this attention to detail, the quality of the product is very good, and most importantly for me, as close to Italy as I can get without being there. The pistachio was my favourite, and I often use it as a gage for rating the quality of a gelateria. For example, if the pistachio flavour appears too green in colour, as opposed to a brownish-green hue, then the chances are fairly good that there are no real pistachios involved. I loved the pistachio at GROM. I could feel tidbits of pistachio lingering until the next spoonful. Very nice. My other favourite, was the limone granita, essentially a lemon slush, made with lemons from Amalfi. I wish I could enjoy one of these every summer day, a little sweet, a little tart, but very refreshing. Who can resist? I must be a nut, as I really love nut gelato. Pistachio, and hazelnut as nature intended: Limone granita almost as tart, and perhaps more sweet than I!
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Don't call it quits on this one

When there are those days when you think, "nothing could top this insanity, the world has reached a new pinnacle of absurdity," chances are you are correct. Who am I to argue? Some days you just want to quit. On days like these, I just try to find a way to cope. And while a bottle of a nice Syrah is often a good start, it needs to be followed by a bit of comfort in a bowl, followed by more Syrah. For me, this "day" is most often Friday, but a Monday will do just fine. It is mostly irrelevent, but when you really just need to feel like a little kid wrapped in a warm towel as you step out of the bathtub, this pasta dish is a good start. Finish with Syrah, my latest craze. This dish is for a day when "you've had it", as my Ukrainian Baba would say.

I am in a love affair with gorgonzola dolce. It is an Italian cheese, which is a bit younger and milder than gorgonzola. The texture is that of a young cheese, and buttery like a brie or camembert. At first it starts out smooth and creamy, and then it surprises you with a deep tangy flavour. It is fantastic with walnuts or pears. Use it just as you would many other blue cheeses, but it doesn't crumble. It is probably best used on anything in which it needs to be spread, or slightly oozing. More grocery stores are carrying it, but poke around at a little Italian shop for it.

I really can't fault pistachio's either. I know I shouldn't use the salted ones for cooking, but often I just can't help it. If I have them in the cupboard and I am moved to use them, so be it. I think they only nut tied for equal versatility is the hazelnut, but that is just me playing favourites. I love nuts. Just keep a few varieties in the freezer or fridge, and there are instantaneously multiple flavour combinations. Toasted or untoasted is just one more exciting option.

You're "Had It" Dinner:

Ingredients:
1 lb box of Barilla Tortiglioni
Coarse Sea Salt
2 tbsp butter
1/2 cup heavy cream
1/2 cup whole milk
200g or (approx.) 1/2 cup gorgonzola dolce
1/2 cup freshly grated parmigiano-reggiano
2 tbsp shelled and chopped pistachio's

1. Boil a large pot of water with 1-2 tbsp of coarse sea salt.
2. Meanwhile, melt the butter slowly in a sauce pan. Add milk and cream and bring to a simmer. Add half of the gorgonzola dolce and gently whisk. Add the parmigiano-reggiano. Reduce heat to low, and whisk occasionally. Requires approximately 10 minutes of cooking to a decent thickness.
3. Cook the pasta for about 10 minutes, at least 2 minutes less than indicated on the box. Strain.
4. Place the sauce into the empty pasta pot, combine with the tortiglioni, and the rest of the gorgonzola. Gently stir until the sauce has coated the pasta.
5. Plate and sprinkle with pistachios. Enjoy and unwind.

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a la gigina = a la really great!

I wish Trattoria della Gigina was down the street from my house. Problem is, my house is not in Bologna....I would eat there every night, and it seems that many locals do. It is an elegant, but casual restaurant on the outskirts of Bologna where everything is just like mama would make - or at least you really wish your mama made. When we were there at the end of July, it was catering to businessmen and families with small children. Some of the businessmen engaged in a short conversation with us as they were leaving; they asked if we liked the food and told us this is the best place. Jeff said "like Ferrari", and they said like "Jacques Villeneuve!" They were very proud of the food at Gigina, and rightfully so. Now I don't know any mama's that make a balsamic flavoured gelee, but at Gigina the food is elegant as well as hearty. Our waitress was very excited to have us visit her restaurant....it was pretty obvious that we didn't live around the corner, but my Italian wasn't too shabby either. She took our order, and helped to make some suggestions which I feel were just and right on target. How can anyone go wrong with an order of truffled mashed potatoes? I can't complain with any place that serves gnocco fritto, the salty little fried pieces of soft dough, which are incredibly addicting although very rich. This was brought to the table a few minutes after she took our order. Every time we ordered a bottle of lambrusco in Emilia-Romagna; our servers eyes lit-up. Either they think we are crazy, or are excited that we recognize this wine is indigenous to the region... I cannot imagine enjoying this cuisine without it. It is a red wine with bubbles and this helps to cut the fattiness of the food perfectly. We've tried a few bottles here at home, but they were often too sweet and virtually undrinkable. As Italians say, everything (not just art) is better in situ. I had to try to the "Roast-beef della “Gigina” con la sua salsa di cottura", and it was really wonderful. Salty, and tender. Jeff ordered the "carpaccio di filetto con grana e rucola". The grana cheese was actually a little grainy; the crystallized salt would crunch in contrast with the butteriness of the beef. Melts in your mouth. We both ordered gnocchi con spinaci in fonduta di parmigiano e tartufo davvero. (Spinach gnocchi in a truffled-cream sauce) After Jeff ordered the world's best gnocchi at Arnaldo's we thought we might be let down. Although the gnocchi were a little less al dente in texture, this was the richest, creamiest sauce I could ever imagine for a gnocchi. It was not only rich with cream, but the amount of truffles made it all the more satisfying. Truffled mashed potatoes - need I say more? And there was a lot of truffle flavour too, no skimping here. Cotoletta alla petroniana con tartufo davvero. Just in case we hadn't consumed enough truffles yet, and although we were exceedingly full already - I devoured this dish. It makes me dream of the day I can eat it again, no matter how full my tummy thinks it is. It is lightly breaded and fried veal, which is then wrapped in prosciutto, and truffles and parmigiano-reggiano. These flavours seemed to layer themselves in your mouth, which was heightened by the silkiness of the sauce. The dish was incredibly salty from the prosciutto and the parmigiano, but certainly not in a salt shaker kind of way. It is one of the specialties of the house. Nearly every table had ordered it. Fabulous. While we would have loved dessert, there was no way that on an eating trip of Italy we could have handled another bite. Next time..... Trattoria della Gigina - via Stendhal 1, 40128 Bologna http://www.trattoriagigina.it/ tel. 051322300 fax 0514189865 | p.iva e c.f 02230100378 | info@trattoriagigina.it
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