Showing posts with label Florence. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Florence. Show all posts

3.31.2010

le volpi e l'uva, firenze

salsiccia crostone It seems that now that the weather has warmed up, all I want to do is to plan the next vacation. And this year, that is to a new house. Oh yea, with a new baby. So, I don't exactly feel hard done by in any which way. But it is fun to think about the possibilities. Like say, Seattle. Love that place, nice and cool and calm. Ridiculously yummy too. Then there is Italy, and well, that's when things get a little funny. Because I, albeit abashedly, haven't even finished telling you about the last trip there, which is pretty ridiculous considering that it is now... just about April. But, then again, I really should document this stuff, because I just can't spend all that time planning it out, to not tell you about it. And there's still some pretty spectacular stuff to go, I think it just took me this long to feel "unfull". Just trust me, somewhere about week three of the trip, Jeff, my Mom, Dad, and I, were all pretty much done with eating. Although, it would only last for a couple hours or so, and then we were back on track. But it gets to you. Plus, the heat. Yes, the days we were in Florence were hot. The fact that it is almost summer again, actually makes me excited about enjoying some very, very hot weather. Now, it isn't hot like you would think. It's not humid, or hot just because you are in the sun. It is hot because Florence is like a giant clay oven, and you just never cool off. Air-conditioning in Europe doesn't mean quite the same thing it does, in say, Texas. Just because you wander into a shop or a restaurant doesn't mean to quickly grab for a sweater. This is a good thing. A very good thing, and much less wasteful to be sure. But it's hot, and I miss it. There is something quite satisfying about being so tired of the heat, to actually want to be cold again. Despite the heat, or perhaps in spite of it, we made the most of la dolce vita by sitting back and enjoying a sip or two of wine. Le volpi e l'uva, or the fox and the grapes, was recommended to me many times over, and so I was certain to make a point of stopping by. le volpi e l'uva I am very glad we did. There is not a lot of room inside, nor outside either. Not that this is strange for Italy, but for a place with a website, I was a little surprised (yes, many places have websites now, but so do many places that are large and well.... semi-terrible). Jeff and I sat outside while we rested our feet before walking from the Palazzo Pitti area, but before the Ponte Vecchio. We were nearly satiated by foaming at the mouth over the menu; it is simple, and to the point. You come here for wine, and of course, wine must not be consumed without the proper accoutrement, a bite to eat. I wanted to eat everything. I suspect not so many others have this same problem. Prosecco, being cooler, was almost always a nice way to start nearly every meal. Refreshing. I also dream of these little tuna sandwiches on a soft bread with crunchy little cipolline onions inside. Oh and it has armagnac too; aka tonno cipolline e armagnac. prosecco e panini, volpi e l'uva The crostone, or word for large crostini, was some bread toasted with cheese and speck. We ordered this again later in our "snack". Delicious. salsiccia crostone A little bite of some salami, mortadella, and beautiful Italian tomatoes was fantastic with our red wine.... of which I have no recollection. Perhaps we had more than one glass? I don't seem to remember. I guess I will have to go back, and try several more of them. snack at volpi e l'uva Le volpi e l'uva - is just off the main road on a little side street between the Ponte Vecchio and the Palazzo Pitti. Sounds impossible, but most directions you will receive in Italy are just as simple as that. Don't worry, look for Piazza dei Rossi, 1. Please save some nibbles for me.

8.20.2009

procacci truffle sandwiches for lunch and teatro del sale for dinner

procacci counter I yearned to go to Procacci for a long time. Why? Truffle sandwiches. Truffle cream sandwiches. Oh yes, and they are lovely with a glass of prosecco. How could I not want to go? Okay, so I do have my obsessions, but this wish, was well worth the wait. Procacci is an elegant little shop with wines, teas, sandwiches, tarts, and delectable items to take home, or for the ultimate foodie gift. It happens to be conveniently located in the midst of some of the most incredible designer shopping, so it is perfect for sneaking in a bite or two between some serious shopping carnage. It wouldn't be complete without something bubbly to sip. The truffle sandwiches are very soft, petite, and creamy inside. prosecco at procacci A close-up shot. procacci truffle sandwich We ordered 3 sets of sandwiches in total; 2 truffle cream sandwiches, 2 foie-gras and truffle cream sandwiches (below), and 2 smoked salmon and arugula cream sandwiches. Loved them all. truffle and foie sandwiches Now be careful, I could get kicked out of the club for the next picture! When visiting Fabio Picchis' Teatro del Sale, you must become a member, and then I stopped taking pictures after we asked if they were allowed. Of course, they are "strictly forbidden". This is the one shot I've got. Oops! teatro del sale food However, I cannot recommend Teatro del Sale enough. It is an experience and an adventure in itself. At first, you will feel incredibly uncomfortable in the complete and utter chaos, as you line up with everyone else to purchase your 5 Euro membership card, trying to figure out the forms, how to ask for a form, how to fill out the form, and it goes on. No one knows what is going on, and everyone is panicking. At least, this was the situation for dinner. Looking back, it was quite comical, and indeed, a theatrical act in itself. Then, you enter in a line, to state if you have a reservation or not. You seat yourself. And if you arrive as nearly late as we did, you barely find a seat. We ended up finding seats just outside the main hall, but luckily we were near the wine. The wine. It is box wine, and you fill up your tumbler as you wish. Love it! This really makes quite a bit of sense since the wine is not exposed to air, and it was good wine, so why not. Now keep in mind that the minutes between entering into the door and feeling like you are wandering aimlessly, hoping, praying that there is some end to the confusion, you hear endless yelling coming from the kitchen in an enormous booming voice. At first, you can't quite figure out what on earth could possibly be going on, and then you learn that it is Chef Fabio Picchi announcing the dishes soon to arrive from the kitchen. The kitchen is open, and you can breathe the smell of everything arising off the birds on the spit, and see large pots of sauce being made. You walk over to a large buffet table, where you sometimes help yourself, and for other dishes a server is dishing the meal onto your plate for you. Do arrive at Teatro del Sale with an appetite. We ate, and ate, and ate. I would love to tell you what was my favourite, but I cannot choose. I loved everything, absolutely everything! Whether it was the antipasto course with potatoes, lentils, chickpeas, beets, and a dish made with spelt and cheese, then there two pastas, I had fusilli with a meat sauce, then ridiculously delicious mussels, then clams, then sausages, chicken, pork, with not enormous amounts of any one thing, but more than enough to eat overall. Then, in case there wasn't yet enough, there was a rich chocolate cake dusted with icing sugar, as well has thin wafer rolls served with literally a giant vat of whipped cream. Oh, me oh my, it was good. Very, very good. So I am hoping here, ummm, that you won't tell anyone that I snapped an inside photo, so maybe I can meet you there one day. I'd hate to get kicked out of the club. After you've enjoyed all of this, and you think you have already enjoyed the main act, but wait. Soon the chairs and tables are cleared away, you are kindly asked to move your chair towards the stage, and Fabio Picchi regales you in tales of philosophy, politics and civilian duties (or that was what I got out of it). Then the nightly entertainment begins. And so it goes. teatro del sale Procacci, Via Tornabuoni, 64/r, Firenze (Firenze) +39 055 211656
Teatro del Sale, Via dei Macci 111r, Florence, 50122

8.18.2009

trattoria mario's, florence

vietato cotto bene The sign on the right says, it is forbidden to ask for the Florentine Steak well done. Perfect, sign me up. I knew I would like this place. It also doesn't hurt that the menu was posted on the wall; there is something so very likable about that. Something that says, "We are old-school. We hand write our menu, since it changes often, but not really more than a smidge, and so, when it changes we only have to change one." Or that's also how they keep things from being excessively expensive... there are other good reasons too, but it's rustic, simple, and nice. It was probably completely illegible from the far reaches of the room, but it is charming, yes? The menu. mario menu A paper placemat. mario placemat Now pappa al pomodoro, this bread and tomato soup, is for me sort of mythical. Something to enjoy right where it is, and not something I can poke around for and find at home. Something to be savoured. It is something that really isn't pretty, although the basil does help, but it has a lovely perfume, and just warms you up from the inside out. Glossy, grassy olive oil just tops it right off. pappa al pomodoro I liked it. A lot. pappa heaven Jeff ordered the mozzarella and pomodoro, and it was good. Not much more to say, other than it was typical, but not extraordinary. It is what it is, and that is very good. And very good, is why I would go back to Mario's. Everything is good, perhaps not mindblowingly super, but still a million times better than I hope for in most meals. Tomatoes. One thing I've noticed in Italy, is that even when the tomato doesn't appear ripe by the standard I would gage at home, they are actually perfect. The tomato might look a little pale, or a little grainy, but then you taste it and it's rich, flavourful, and like a tomato on the right kind of steroids - none. caprese At Mario's they tell you that a bistecca is about a kilogram, so you can have it a little bit bigger or a little bit smaller. I ordered it a little bit smaller, it was extraordinarily hot, which we've found through Italy in the summer can sadly hamper our appetites. Here, it our bistecca to be was shown for our approval at 950 grams. raw More steaks on parade. size matters Then our bistecca fiorentina arrived. A beautiful colour on the outside, deeply golden brown. The heat was very, very high - this does not take long to cook. entire bistecca I cannot describe to you how much better steak tastes when it is not overcooked. I hate to admit that I have virtually stopped ordering steaks in restaurants because they are so often overcooked, poorly seasoned, or lacking in flavour (too lean!). This was a very good steak - best ever? No, but still exceptional nonetheless. mario's bistecca fiorentina Patate lesse, boiled potatoes with some olive oil. I shouldn't have ordered this, but I just wanted some potatoes. Instead I was yearning for more pappa al pomodoro, and I still do. patate lesse Including wine, bread, a bottle of sparkling water - lunch came to 47.50 Euro. In other words 50 Euro; tipping in Italy is completely different than in North America, or at least I have learned to treat it as such. Italy tipping advice. Honestly, I have heard many different versions of how to tip, or not to tip, with not to tip being the most prevalent I've heard from Italians (albeit this is different from those who also speak English): either there is a cover charge and that is your tip, or the cover charge is included in the cost of the meal. No one ever expects a tip, and sometimes someone almost chases you out the door with your change! I've heard to round up the amount of the bill, up to the next bill, and that will still be considered virtually no tip (depending on the amount due, and the type of bill). I have left a bit more of a tip, say 10%, when I have asked a question, or if the server's English skills were better than my Italian, or if I felt that someone went out of their way - for whatever reason. There is hardly ever an expectation of a tip, ever. To one Roman friend, we discussed what tipping even was for at least 20 minutes! The concept, in North American terms, was to him on the verge of bizarre. Keep in mind that these views are can be extremely regional, so in one little town the rule might be quite different than the next town 20km away...okay perhaps a bit exaggerated, but sometimes it feels that way! Cash is king too, so don't plan on using credit card for an entire trip to Italy, especially non-touristy small towns, and anything that is not a chain or a large hotel....this means most places take cash only, or certainly not to the extent of usage in North America. Wow, where did that tangent come from? If you go to Florence, go to Mario's. Near the Mercato Centrale. It's good traditional food, served at a good price. You'll get to mix with other diners at communal tables, and I wish you good luck trying not to devour the food across from you with your eyes.

8.14.2009

la bussola, firenze

la bussola Looking for a very cool wine bar and pizzeria in Florence? Go to La Bussola. Perhaps some things are best left to unfold naturally, for instance, to discover that great little cafe you return to every single day of a trip, and it never lets you down. And some things are best planned in advance, like researching to find the cozy romantic wine bar, with great food, where you can linger and just unwind. One afternoon, Jeff and I were looking for something to eat, and luckily we happened to find La Bussola. We were lucky, but next time, I will definitely plan to go back. It is dimly lit, and quite cozy. interior, la bussola I ordered a lot of lardo this trip -- what is lardo? Well, it is almost like it sounds! It is cured piggy fat, and it is oh, oh, oh so very delectable. It is best served thinly sliced, and a little bit warm. Like pig butter, but you can't spread it. We started with a bit of prosecco, then enjoyed this cannellini bean crostini topped with lardo (albeit impossible to photograph with the dim lighting, and sheen on the lardo!). There were a few tomatoes to spruce up the middle of the plate. I love lardo, so I was already loving this place. beans and lardo Walnut, pear, honey, and pecorino pizza. It was very rich, but sweetened by the thinly sliced pears and drizzled honey. I would absolutely love to have this pizza again. Love. walnut, pear, honey & pecorino pizza Jeff ordered the sausage, tomato, and truffle pecorino pizza - again fantastic. sausage, tomato, truffle pecorino pizza So while, there are many places in Florence that I still am anxious to try, La Bussola is one of the restaurants at the top of my list to return to again. Ristorante La Bussola Via Porta Rossa, 58/r Florence Tel. 055 293376

bar cucciolo, firenze

cucciolo pastries In Florence, I love Bar Cucciolo. Why? Because it has everything you want in a bar, and everything is good, and you can sit down AND there's a washroom. Plus, it's honest service with an honest smile. Every time I go, it's kinda like going home. Nothing that exciting or mind-blowingly exotic, but reliable and good. Really, you can get most anything, and go any time of day (but not Sundays), whether it be a morning cappuccino (breakfast for 4 was about 8 Euro), or an aperitivo spritz, freshly squeezed orange juice, or heated sandwiches and pizzas - it's all good and super reasonable. I'll admit that it wasn't anywhere near the best breakfast we had in Florence, but it wasn't the worst either. I go to Cucciolo when I don't want an enormous meal, but I still want something good. It's best when you just want a little snack, or a light meal. I was so enamored with my new favorite sandwich that somehow there's no photo... but it has a few thin slices of ham, a few slices of hard-boiled eggs, and a creamy sauce with mushrooms. Love it. There's a gigantic display case with dozens of sandwiches and pizzas, with a very gentle man ready to take your order. Order. Sit. Eat. Pay after. lovely shop Pastries galore. cucciolo display Bar Cucciolo, Via del Corso, 25/R, Florence, Italy +39 055 287727

8.12.2009

trattoria cammillo, firenze

facade of Cammillo I love going out for dinner when on vacation in Italy. It's always an anticipated event. And not just for the food, although, I certainly wouldn't argue. But there is something to be said for getting dressed for dinner, taking a leisurely stroll on the way there and getting lost on the way there, enjoying one's company, the surroundings, having a glass, or two, of wine, chatting animatedly, and then meandering home again, but not before lingering over a gelato and a fantastic view. That would perfectly summarize our evening to Trattoria Cammillo, on the Oltrarno side, of Florence. Everything is very, very good, from the service, to the wine, to the food. Nothing too fancy, nothing too simple, but yet elegant and lovely all in one. Tavolo, table. tavolo Vino and acqua. vino Jeff and Dad and surroundings. cammillo Dad is now a mozzarella and pomodoro addict. mozzarella e pomodoro Mom loved the tortellini with a simple tomato sauce, filled with cheese. tortellini pomodoro Jeff had, and I tasted, the risotto alla sepia, with squid ink. The pieces of squid were also very tender, one of the best risottos I've had in awhile. Too bad I couldn't get my shadow out of the way! risotto alla sepia I can't resist buttery tagliatelle with porcini. To die for! tagliatelle with porcini I had to have something fried, "fritto". This was all vegetables. You can just barely see the zucchini blossom peeking out. Crispy, and delicious. fritto Mom & Dad swooned over the chicken parmigiana. Who can go wrong when there are vats of butter involved? chicken parmigiana Jeff had the veal milanese, and of course with butter! But it deceptively, looks like more butter than there was...there was a sauce there too. He wouldn't have a parade about it, he says, but still very good. veal milanese Rabbit spiedine. You'll have to excuse me, as I am partially translating between English and Italian, as in some cases, things aren't always translatable, exactly. At least not for me, as I am still adjusting to speaking solely in English, and not in half Italian, and half English, and half whatever other language seems to pop up! This literally was grilled rabbit on a skewer with rosemary, and it was as tender and juicy as I'd like for anything grilled. Very, very nice. rabbit spiedine After a slow saunter back across the Ponte Vecchio, a covered bridge lined with jewelry shops and mostly swarming with people... ponte vecchio We stopped at one of my favourite gelateria's of all time, Gelateria delle Carrozze. You can order from the counter, or sit and order at a table. Not only is the gelato, virtually perfect, but the mousse, oh my, the mousse. Ferrero Rocher MOUSSE! gelateria della carrozze Trattoria Cammillo, 57R Borgo Sant Jacopo, Florence, Italy, 055 212427 Caffe delle Carrozze, Gelateria, Piazza del Pesce n.3/4/5r (Ponte Vecchio),

055 2396810

8.06.2009

caffe chiaroscuro and piazza della signoria

chiaroscuro cappuccino I am not really so sure why it has taken me to write this, other than the fact that I have been searching through photos, hoping, praying that somewhere I would find a photo of my favourite cornetto di cioccolatta, or chocolate-filled-croissant. But sadly, somehow, I don't have even a single photo! Alas, I guess I'll have to go back to Florence take a photo of one of the world's best chocolate croissants -- I think it's a great excuse, no? The cornetto in question had an orange-flavoured pastry, and was dusted in cocoa. It was flaky, but not so flaky that it explodes into little bits. The outer shell was lovely in and of itself. But the dark chocolate pudding-like inside, was so very scrumptious, that it had me thoroughly disappointed with virtually every other cornetti on the trip! Honestly though, right now, I would happily nibble at any other cornetti di ciocolatta. However, Caffè Chiaroscuro is particularly fantastic, and it does stand out in my mind as somewhere I will love to return to, time and again. You see, nearly everyday of our month-long adventure in Italy consisted of a daily trip to the "bar", for breakfast. An Italian "bar" is like a local gathering place, to grab a quick bite to eat, and probably more likely for a daily cappuccino in the morning, or a caffè - an espresso anytime thereafter. It's like a little ritual to be repeated over and over, and it is but a fleeting moment, but you want it to last for much, much longer. Cappuccino & bomboloni, an apricot jam-filled donut. Perfection. bomboloni con marmellata At Chiaroscuro, you can order at the bar counter, or for table service in the back. Chiaroscuro is a bit unusual serving specialty coffee drinks, special blends, and loose leaf teas, as well as the usual cappuccini and espresso. But I like the classics best. It is also possible to enjoy an evening aperitivo. chiaroscuro facade We returned to Caffè Chiaroscuro, several days out of our nine mornings in Florence. I think I am in withdrawal.... After the morning coffee, it is fantastic to soak in the delights of Piazza della Signoria, a real world sculpture garden. piazza della signoria Michelangelo's David is housed in the Accademia, but he was originally intended to inspire Florentine's in this spot. This is a copy, but it I cherish the opportunity to see the original place for which great art was intended, especially since it can be a rare event. Please don't think this is just a naked statue of some guy with curly hair. If you look carefully, you can see Michelangelo's vast knowledge and understanding of the body. It is extremely remarkable, but even the smallest details are given attention. The veins on David's right forearm are easily visible and quite prevalent, just as it is when your own hand hangs down at your side; when an arm is up, the veins are no longer plumped with blood, and the veins of David's left hand have receded into his skin. Pure genius. david Caffè Chiaroscuro Via del Corso, 36/r Firenze, Italia Tel: 055 214247
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