8.20.2009
procacci truffle sandwiches for lunch and teatro del sale for dinner
I yearned to go to Procacci for a long time. Why? Truffle sandwiches. Truffle cream sandwiches. Oh yes, and they are lovely with a glass of prosecco. How could I not want to go?
Okay, so I do have my obsessions, but this wish, was well worth the wait.
Procacci is an elegant little shop with wines, teas, sandwiches, tarts, and delectable items to take home, or for the ultimate foodie gift. It happens to be conveniently located in the midst of some of the most incredible designer shopping, so it is perfect for sneaking in a bite or two between some serious shopping carnage.
It wouldn't be complete without something bubbly to sip. The truffle sandwiches are very soft, petite, and creamy inside.
A close-up shot.
We ordered 3 sets of sandwiches in total; 2 truffle cream sandwiches, 2 foie-gras and truffle cream sandwiches (below), and 2 smoked salmon and arugula cream sandwiches. Loved them all.
Now be careful, I could get kicked out of the club for the next picture! When visiting Fabio Picchis' Teatro del Sale, you must become a member, and then I stopped taking pictures after we asked if they were allowed. Of course, they are "strictly forbidden". This is the one shot I've got. Oops!
However, I cannot recommend Teatro del Sale enough. It is an experience and an adventure in itself.
At first, you will feel incredibly uncomfortable in the complete and utter chaos, as you line up with everyone else to purchase your 5 Euro membership card, trying to figure out the forms, how to ask for a form, how to fill out the form, and it goes on. No one knows what is going on, and everyone is panicking. At least, this was the situation for dinner. Looking back, it was quite comical, and indeed, a theatrical act in itself.
Then, you enter in a line, to state if you have a reservation or not. You seat yourself. And if you arrive as nearly late as we did, you barely find a seat. We ended up finding seats just outside the main hall, but luckily we were near the wine.
The wine. It is box wine, and you fill up your tumbler as you wish. Love it! This really makes quite a bit of sense since the wine is not exposed to air, and it was good wine, so why not.
Now keep in mind that the minutes between entering into the door and feeling like you are wandering aimlessly, hoping, praying that there is some end to the confusion, you hear endless yelling coming from the kitchen in an enormous booming voice. At first, you can't quite figure out what on earth could possibly be going on, and then you learn that it is Chef Fabio Picchi announcing the dishes soon to arrive from the kitchen.
The kitchen is open, and you can breathe the smell of everything arising off the birds on the spit, and see large pots of sauce being made. You walk over to a large buffet table, where you sometimes help yourself, and for other dishes a server is dishing the meal onto your plate for you.
Do arrive at Teatro del Sale with an appetite. We ate, and ate, and ate. I would love to tell you what was my favourite, but I cannot choose. I loved everything, absolutely everything! Whether it was the antipasto course with potatoes, lentils, chickpeas, beets, and a dish made with spelt and cheese, then there two pastas, I had fusilli with a meat sauce, then ridiculously delicious mussels, then clams, then sausages, chicken, pork, with not enormous amounts of any one thing, but more than enough to eat overall. Then, in case there wasn't yet enough, there was a rich chocolate cake dusted with icing sugar, as well has thin wafer rolls served with literally a giant vat of whipped cream. Oh, me oh my, it was good. Very, very good.
So I am hoping here, ummm, that you won't tell anyone that I snapped an inside photo, so maybe I can meet you there one day. I'd hate to get kicked out of the club.
After you've enjoyed all of this, and you think you have already enjoyed the main act, but wait. Soon the chairs and tables are cleared away, you are kindly asked to move your chair towards the stage, and Fabio Picchi regales you in tales of philosophy, politics and civilian duties (or that was what I got out of it). Then the nightly entertainment begins. And so it goes.
Procacci, Via Tornabuoni, 64/r, Firenze (Firenze) +39 055 211656
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11 comments:
I'm absolutely LOVING your Florence posts as I'm heading there in a few weeks. Can't wait! :)
Christie - I'm so glad! You will find that most menus in Florence of "restaurants/trattorias" are virtually identical, with very similar pricing. However, on the last trip (2nd), the places I had researched were on the pricier side, and tended to be more modern.
I hate to say it, but we didn't enjoy them much at all - Beccofino, and La Giostra. Overpriced, and not worth it.
This time we stuck to "cheap eats" or "good value eats" for Florence, and for Rome. So much more satisfying for us.
Oh, oh! I've been to Teatro, years ago. I forgot the name, and then I saw your picture and the description. Sigh. Such great memories. If I was in Firenze, I would show you a place in an alley that does great roast turkey and eggplant sandwiches. Near the big post office and Santa Croce. But I can't remember the name of it. Darn. Thanks for the re-memories!
There's another place, near Sana Maria Novella called "I Latini" that is similar to Teatro. It's well known, but the food is really good.
Oh, I remember Procacci... I dragged my 2.5 year old daughter there and has truffle butter sandwiches. Fun!
And if I remember right, the Teatro is part of the same little group of venues with Cibreo, right? Like across the street, same proprietor? In which case I'm not surprised you ate very well.
Teatro del Sale is an experience not to be missed! I am glad you got to be a part of it.
The photo is definately contraband!
Hi Gail,
I'm a Host/Producer at CBC Radio. I'm setting up a new food column for my week-end radio show. Would you be interested in appearing on it? Call me at 403-521-6236, and I can give you some details on what I'm looking for.
Cheers,
Russell Bowers
Florence food looks amazing!!! that truffle sandwich ......i'm speechless!
Ok, so I need to plan a trip to Florence. I will get on a jet plane for truffle sandwiches!
Wow - that was an amazing post. I look at your blog from work alot..and dream...but I am blocked from commenting there. Just wanted to drop by and say I like your writing and photography!
Pierce - thanks so much! (new post coming soon, I swear!!)
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