salumi, Seattle

Salami might sound like just any old cured meat to plunk into a sandwich and sink the teeth into. However, when at Salumi, you discover that it is anything but. Salumi plays on the Italian word salumeria, and has become a food-lover's destination in Seattle, and even a bit of a landmark. Pilgrams to the shop will find their own version of high art. A slice of salami is studded with kaleidoscopic colours, and multiple layers of intense flavour. New York restaurateur and celebrity chef, red-haired, clog-sporting Mario Batali is certainly well known in the world of food. But in this case, Salumi is the brainchild and dream of his father, Armandino Batali. He retired from Boeing, went to Panzano, Italy, with food expert, Faith Willinger to learn from the ultimate in Tuscan food knowledge, Dario Cecchini. Then Armandino brought back to Seattle the knowledge of how to prepare the treasures of the Italian table. Not only is there salami, and beautiful sandwiches, but traditionally prepared dishes as well. Salumi has also begun to create their own culatello. It is in some ways similar to prosciutto, basically the same part of the back leg of the pig, but a smaller section of it. Originally, culatello is from Zibello, near Parma, and the curing process traditionally only happens in January and lasts from 6-8 months. However, the entire process is dependent upon the climate, and therefore is not easily replicable inside a factory. This stuff is in demand and hard to get. Culatello is not often available outside of Zibello, and due to the type of process used to prepare it, was not easily obtainable in the United States. Now, if you are lucky, you can enjoy it at Salumi, or mail-order it. Even though it has become nearly obligatory to photograph the sign above the entrance, Salumi is actually easier to recognize by the line-up of eager denizens pouring out into the street. Luckily, the jovial staff are occasionally meandering down the cue with a plate of some delicious carnivorous samples like a spicy mole salami. Salumi is so wildly popular that even though they are open from Tuesday through Friday from 11am-4pm, the door often closes sometime around 2pm as they frequently sell out. A few dishes of the day, including eggplant or pasta shells with tomato and basil: Interestingly, the prosciutto we saw was from Canada. Get the prosciutto, fig, and goat cheese sandwich as a snack for the late afternoon. Salumi has weekly specials, and luckily, it was oxtail. Enjoy the hot sandwiches at the communal table, make a few friendes, and wash it down with some wine. This is some of the best stuff you can eat anywhere. It doesn't get any better. It is impossible to take decent pictures while rushing frantically to get to the plate. The oxtail is great, and so is the porchetta. It is roasted so beautifully, resulting in chunks of the most tender meat around. Salumi is a place doing good things, for good eating. Short of learning Italian, and intensely studying the Michelin Guide Book on where to eat, this is as good as it gets on this side of the pond. Salumi -309 Third Ave South, Seattle, WA (between Main and Jackson, across from Seattle Lighting)
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24 hours in Seaview, Washington

It seems that not many people go to Seaview, and I found this a little surprising, as it has North America's longest sandy beach and tasty seafood to boot. To be honest, it is on an absolutely gorgeous peninsula with a little sun and a good breeze to highlight any child's golden locks. Traipsing between towns, beaches and bakeries, there is little left to desire for a nice sojourn. Somehow, everything seems a little "untouched", as if we are wandering where no tourist has gone before, just lucky travelers. Perhaps we just hit it on an "off" year, but it is the quaint solitude of this place which makes it immensely enjoyable to visit. While I wouldn't exactly say that it was a fluke we ended up here, but somehow, I found the Shelburne Inn with many splendid reviews of its hospitality and delicious breakfasts. We were on the way to Seattle, and not even knowing exactly where Seaview was, we knew it had to be close enough as a little reprieve from driving before hitting Seattle. The historical Shelburne Inn: A beautifully plated breakfast: When I told Jeff to "Go fly a kite", he actually could, thanks to Above It All Kites of Long Beach, Washington, which is just up the street from Seaview. He was just like a kid in a kite store. Although this kite was no joke; with two strings, it was lifting Jeff off the ground with sheer force. He was absolutely giddy. An enjoyable and fun lunch can be found at Julie's Loose Caboose Diner. It's a kitschy kind of place, and in Seaview this is just what the doctor ordered. If travelling with a 5 year-old boy, I am sure he would be over the moon - eating in a styled train, with a toy train going around the restaurant: Just watch the little train go around the track, and try to decipher all the signatures on the $1 bills. Sure, it's a little bit tacky, but the food is alright, and while the clubhouse sandwich could have used fresh roasted turkey breast, the clam chowder (top) wasn't too shabby.The chowder was creamy, but not overly gritty, as the potatoes were not too starchy. Unfortunately, we didn't make it to the homemade berry pie, which sounded delicious -- touched up with a little rhubarb. There are many other great things to check out on the peninsula. There's the adorable little bakery and coffee shop in Oysterville, horseback riding on the beach, and dining at the Crabpot (hint: get the crab legs). In the very least, take someone to hold hands with and stroll along the beach.
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